The Big Black River flows through Maine’s extreme northwestern corner and, like several rivers and streams in this part of the state, travels across the international boundary with Quebec to join the St. John River (in Maine) downstream. Paddling the Big Black entails many miles of dirt road travel for people coming from points south. The US put in can also be accessed from near the town of St. Pamphile, Quebec (see Maine Atlas page 60) but this has its own complexities such as US and Canadian Customs and their somewhat limited hours. Do not traverse the international boundary by canoe as this is unlawful.
The trip is generally quite an easy 2-3 day trip, featuring class 1 and 2 rapids if water levels are in the 200-300 cfs range on the USGS Maine streamflow web site. But because of the remoteness of this trip one should exercise special caution–getting help to this area would always take time. Furthermore, the usual river hazards (strainers, cold water, unanticipated accidents, etc.) exist here as anywhere.
A reasonable put in is on the upstream, north side of the Depot Road bridge (Maine Atlas page 60), near the gauge which measures water flow. This put-in is about 5 miles south of St. Pamphile, Quebec. Downstream of the put-in the riverbanks are lined with conifer forests, so typical of many northern Maine rivers. This upper portion of the river flows gently for the next 6 miles or so, when Depot Stream, the first major tributary, joins the Big Black on the right. There are several sporting camps along its banks in this area, but, in general, the river has few camps along its length.
The Big Black continues gently in its southwest direction to a sharp left bend where the course changes to north. Roughly one mile north of this bend, the river approaches the Blanchet Road bridge, where a rapid known as Connors Sluice begins. When the word “sluice” is associated with a Maine river it’s usually a place to exercise caution or even to portage, but that is not the case here. Connors Sluice is simply a class 1 or gentle 2 rapid that would be more rapid moving and vigorous in high water. But as sluices go it’s a gentle one where the rapid water continues for a mile or more downstream.
By the time the river reaches the tributary (left) called the Shields Branch, a short mile after a sharp right turn, is the so called Ninemile Deadwater. The Shields Branch, incidentally, provides people with small motorized craft access to the lower portion of the Big Black. And the Ninemile Deadwater (self explanatory!) ends at the site of the former Big Black Dam, long since washed out and very easily runnable. The dam’s vestiges can easily be spotted here.
Below the vestiges of the dam the river has intermittent gentle rapids all the way to the St. John. At the St. John one may either take out at the bridge (¼ mile upstream of the confluence) or continue down the St. John as far as desired.
The entire Maine portion of the Big Black is under 30 miles so can be done in two days, but take three or more for even more enjoyment! And please keep in mind that the remoteness of this area should be a reminder to be especially cautious.
Gate fees apply for entrance into North Maine Woods. The Saint-Pamphile Customs station is usually closed on weekends. North Maine Woods and US and Canadian Customs gate hours are subject to change; it's advisable to check these prior to departure on your trip either by phone or online.
For additional information, visit the Aroostook County Tourism website, or contact:
Aroostook County TourismPUT-IN, DEPOT ROAD BRIDGE
From the North Maine Woods - St. Pamphile Checkpoint, take Depot Road south from Blanchette Road. The intersection is right by the checkpoint. Follow Depot Road 9.7 miles to the bridge over Big Black River.
TAKE-OUT, ESCOURT ROAD BRIDGE NEAR ST JOHN CONFLUENCE
From the North Maine Woods - St. Pamphile Checkpoint, take the cut-off road to the north from Blanchette Road, opposite Depot Road. The intersection is right by the checkpoint. Turn right onto Robinson Road/Shields Branch Road, and follow for 7.2 miles, and then bear right to stay on Robinson Road. Go 2 more miles and then take a right at the 4-way intersection. Go 6 miles and turn right onto Escourt Road. Proceed one mile to the bridge of the Big Black River.
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